
"Some passes lead to summits.
Organ Pipes leads to wonder."
Organ Pipes Pass
Central Drakensberg
The Stairway to the Cathedral
"Some passes take you to the escarpment. Organ
Pipes takes you into the heart of the Drakensberg."
The Beginning
Every great
mountain has its gateway.
For
Cathedral Peak...
that gateway
is the Camel.
The journey
begins at Didima Camp, where the trail gradually climbs through montane
grassland beneath towering cliffs. At first, the mountains seem distant.
Then, almost
imperceptibly...
they begin
to close around you.
Ahead stands
one of South Africa's most recognisable mountains—
Cathedral
Peak.
Why "The Camel"?
One of the
Berg's most famous landmarks is the broad ridge leading toward Cathedral Peak. Seen
from the right angle, it resembles the back of a kneeling camel. The
resemblance is so striking that early hikers gave it the obvious name. For over
a century, thousands of boots have crossed its "back."
Today...
The Camel
has become almost as famous as Cathedral Peak itself.
A Geological Symphony
This is one
of the finest places in the Berg to understand how these mountains were born.
Nearly 183
million years ago, enormous volcanic eruptions covered southern Africa with
layer upon layer of basalt lava. These successive flows cooled into the hard,
dark rock that forms today's escarpment.
Over
millions of years, water, frost and gravity carved away the softer weaknesses.
The
result...
The
magnificent basalt buttresses of Cathedral Peak. The Organ Pipes
themselves are spectacular examples of columnar jointing. As the lava
cooled, it contracted into tall polygonal columns.
Nature built
a cathedral. The basalt became its organ.

The Organ Pipes
Nothing
prepares you for seeing them in person. Towering vertical columns rise hundreds
of metres into the sky. Standing beneath them...
you
understand immediately why they were named.
They
resemble the giant pipes of a church organ. When mist drifts through them...
it almost
feels as though the mountain itself is breathing.
The Pass
Unlike steep
gullies such as Fangs or Corner...
Organ Pipes
Pass is surprisingly logical. The route follows grassy slopes before entering
rocky sections that wind naturally toward the escarpment.
Although
never technically difficult...
It demands
fitness. The altitude gain is substantial. The final approach always seems one
rise further than expected.
Windy Gap
One of the
best-known landmarks is Windy Gap.
Anyone who
has stood there knows exactly why.
Even on calm
days...
The wind
often accelerates dramatically through the gap. It is here that many hikers
first glimpse the vast Lesotho plateau beyond.
The Escarpment
Suddenly...
The climbing
stops. The horizon opens. Behind you...
The cliffs
fall away towards KwaZulu-Natal.
Ahead...
Lesotho
stretches into infinity. Many hikers simply sit in silence. No words are
needed.
Cathedral Peak
Although
Organ Pipes reaches the escarpment...
Many
continue to climb Cathedral Peak itself.
The summit
has inspired generations of mountaineers since the first recorded ascent by
members of the Mountain Club of South Africa in 1917, using what
has become the standard route involving exposed scrambling and ladders near the
summit.
Standing
there...
You are
surrounded by some of Africa's greatest mountain scenery.
The Bell Traverse
No story
about Organ Pipes is complete without mentioning perhaps South Africa's most
famous mountain traverse.
The Bell
Traverse links Cathedral Peak with the Cathedral range in a spectacular
route beneath soaring cliffs.
It is not
technically extreme. But it demands confidence. Exposure accompanies every
step.
Many
experienced hikers regard it as the finest traverse in southern Africa.

San Heritage
Long before
hikers...
The San knew
these valleys intimately.
The Didima
region contains one of the richest concentrations of San rock art in the
Drakensberg. Nearby rock shelters preserve paintings that are hundreds, and in
some cases thousands, of years old.
These
paintings are far more than decoration. They record spiritual beliefs, hunting
traditions and ceremonies.
Whenever we
walk these valleys...
We are
following paths that people walked long before there were maps.
Flora
The
Cathedral Peak region is a botanist's paradise.
In summer:
- Red hot pokers blaze across the slopes.
- Wild gladioli emerge after rain.
- Helichrysums perfume the air.
- Giant lobelias cling to rocky ledges.
- Proteas dominate the lower slopes.
- Delicate orchids appear where water seeps
across the grasslands.
After a
summer storm...
The
mountains become a living garden.
Fauna
The wildlife
remains remarkable.
Among the
regular inhabitants are:
· Bearded Vulture (Lammergeier)—one of
Africa's rarest birds, often seen soaring effortlessly beneath the cliffs.
· Verreaux's Eagle patrols the rock faces.
· Eland, the largest antelope in Africa, still graze these
slopes.
· Troops of Chacma baboons inhabit the cliffs.
· Rock hyrax (dassies) bask among the boulders.
And, if
fortunate...
You may
glimpse the shy Grey Rhebok on the higher grasslands.
Incidents and Mountain Rescue
Organ Pipes
has seen its share of emergencies. Not because it is unusually dangerous. But
because it is so popular.
Weather
The greatest
hazard remains the weather.
Dense mist
can engulf the escarpment within minutes. Navigation becomes difficult. Summer
thunderstorms produce intense lightning. Winter brings snow and ice.
Falls
Although the
pass itself is relatively straightforward, hikers venturing onto Cathedral Peak
or the Bell Traverse have suffered falls over the decades.
Several
rescue operations have involved climbers stranded on exposed sections of
Cathedral Peak.
Exhaustion
Many parties
underestimate the distance.
Attempting
Organ Pipes and Cathedral Peak in a single day has led to numerous evacuations
for exhaustion, dehydration and injury.
Helicopter Rescues
The Didima
area has become one of the classic operating grounds for Mountain Club of
South Africa Rescue teams working alongside the South African Air Force
and later civilian helicopter services.
Strong
winds, cloud and steep terrain have often made these rescues challenging. Every
successful rescue is a tribute to the skill and courage of the crews.
First Ascents
Unlike
technical peaks, passes rarely have a "first ascent."
For
thousands of years, shepherds, hunters and San people moved through these
mountains. The first recorded European exploration of the Cathedral Peak region
occurred during the nineteenth century.
The first
documented ascent of Cathedral Peak itself came in 1917, but the Camel
and Organ Pipes route almost certainly saw human footsteps centuries before
that.
There are
mountain journeys.
Then there
are pilgrimages.
Organ Pipes
belongs to the second.
Nobody walks
this route unchanged.
You begin
beneath forests.
You cross
the Camel.
You climb
toward giant basalt organ pipes.
You emerge
onto Africa's roof.
It is a
journey through geological time.
Through
human history.
Through your
own thoughts.
"Organ
Pipes Pass is far more than a route to the escarpment. It is one of the
Drakensberg's great pilgrimages. Beginning on the broad back of the Camel, the
trail climbs beneath towering basalt columns sculpted by volcanic fires nearly
183 million years ago. Along the way lie echoes of the San, rare mountain
wildlife and the ever-present challenge of Berg weather. Those who reach Windy
Gap and step onto the escarpment discover not only one of South Africa's finest
mountain journeys, but also a place where geology, history and wilderness come
together in perfect harmony."
We as hikers, explorers, and
adventurers have the absolute duty to respect and protect our Wildernesses.
Nobody else will do it for us. Take ownership!
The End.
Safe Hiking.
References and Acknowledgements
From the book: Drakensberg Wilderness – A Solo Journey Through Paradise – W Pelser
Photos: ©Willem Pelser
Compiled by: Willem Pelser